A Community Without Roads in Patagonia

The world’s southernmost region (apart from the Antarctic) is an area of 400,000 square miles - roughly one and a half times the size of the United Kingdom - split between Chile and Argentina. The geography of Patagonia is incredibly diverse with wild landscapes that vary; icy glaciers plunge into emerald lakes; wild fjords snake through hardwood forests; and the Andes' dramatic peaks ascend into swirling clouds and mist. In Chile, Patagonia covers a third of the country's territory, but less than 5% of its inhabitants call this area home. 

A view of Explorers’ Valley on the Chilean side of Patagonia. Source: Jorge Leon Cabello

In one of the most remote towns in Chile, you'll have to leave your vehicle at the top of a cliff and descend endless wooden walkways and wooden steps on foot to arrive. Caleta Tortel is a picturesque lumber town that consists mainly of stilt houses built along steep terrain and coastal waters. Due to the topography, wooden walkways instead of conventional streets connect the community of 500 inhabitants. 

A view of Caleta Tortel. Source: El Portal de Aysen

History of Caleta Tortel

In 1955, the Chilean Armada built an outpost in Caleta Tortel, and it became a regular route for the transport of livestock and wood. In 1981, the village was formally founded. But, Tortel’s history didn’t begin with the Navy; its past is shrouded in mystery and the stories are still very much alive today. In 1905, 200 workers were transported to Caleta Tortel to begin work on opening a shipping route between the Baker River and Chubut in Argentina. Hired by the Explotadora Society Baker, the men were dropped off to begin cutting cypress trees and clearing a path;.further food and supplies would follow in another ship and the men were to be picked up by ship before the winter set in. No ship ever arrived. By the time winter came, most of the workers were dead of a mysterious illness with symptoms of bruising of the skin and bleeding. When they were finally rescued, over 100 bodies were discovered buried in cypress wood coffins on one of the islands at the mouth of the River Baker. This is not the only mystery that surrounds Caleta Tortel. Word has it that a city of gold is buried somewhere nearby, and one of the islands is the alleged site of an alien visit which resulted in a man being cured of cancer. 

A home made of cypress wood in Caleta Tortel. Source: David M Byrne

Caleta Tortel is remote, yet an unforgettable destination for travelers with a zest for nature and adventure. In addition to taking in stunning views on one of the many hiking trails, here one can enjoy kayaking, boating, or day trips to see forests, waterfalls and glaciers. As told by one traveler of her experience in Caleta Tortel: 

When we arrived, I wrote in my diary, "I'm not sure I'm going to like it here." By the time we left, I wrote, "I don't want to leave." - Andrea Montgomery

The nearby Steffen Glacier offered as a day trip from Caleta Tortel. Source: Partamos

The nearby Katalalixar National Reserve offered as a day trip from Caleta Tortel. Source: National Geographic

A view of the Torres del Paine National Park in the Chilean Patagonia. This vast area encompasses mountains, glaciers, forests, rivers, plains, lakes and an abundant variety of wildlife. This national park is one of the most popular areas to visit in Patagonia and is roughly 16 hours by car from Caleta Tortel. Source: Destinationless Travel


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Meredith Leigh